INTRODUCTION AND LOGISTICS
Let's plan a final trip to Shenandoah National Park this season, using the Lewis Mountain Campground as our base. Fall is prime time here as the foliage puts on a spectacular show and a chill in the air marks the changing season. By early November, the leaves at higher elevations are past their peak, but the barren trees open up dramatic views and provide unobstructed wildlife viewing. The park begins seasonal shutdowns in November and nearly all amenities are closed by the end of November, but there's time for one last trip before the season runs out and winter settles in.
Of the 4 developed campgrounds, the only options past the first weekend in November are the large reservation-only Big Meadows Campground and the much smaller Lewis Mountain Campground, which is strictly first-come-first-served and will be our destination. Lewis Mountain Campground is easily reached via Swift Run Gap and is about 2 hours from Reston and Herndon. Entry fees for Shenandoah National Park are $30 per vehicle for one week, or free with an $80 America the Beautiful pass. Other passes are also available, but remember that camping fees do not cover park admission. When I visited during the government shutdown last week, they were waiving fees, which was actually a bummer for me because I was excited about using my pass!
CAR CAMPING
The 31-site Lewis Mountain Campground is a hidden gem that will make you forget that Shenandoah National Park receives about 1.5 million visitors each year. The nightly fee of $30 is payable on site by credit card only. With all sites at this campground being first-come-first-served, you'll want to arrive early, and midweek is the best bet for a good selection. I arrived noon on Wednesday and had a decent choice, and it didn't fill until Friday morning, when prospective campers were lined up in hopes of getting a spot. You can opt in to campsite availability notifications by texting SHENCAMP to 888777, although this was suspended during the shutdown. Don't despair if you find Lewis Mountain full, because you still might snag a spot at Big Meadows, just a few minutes north on Skyline Drive. As the color fades and nights get colder, demand also decreases, and campsites should be less scarce in November.
All campsites include a fire ring, picnic table and bear box, but few offer much privacy or extra tent space. Sites 14-16 and 18 on the perimeter are among the best. The central bath house has flush toilets and drinking water, and you'll be glad it's heated on chilly mornings. A short walk takes you to the well-stocked camp store, where the friendly staff serves both campers and cabin guests. They are likely to have any food or gear you might have forgotten, plus they have coin-operated hot showers. They even have just about anything a passing Appalachian Trail hiker might need. Their firewood was indispensable for keeping warm, and I was unable to resist the modest, but well-curated craft beer selection. I'll be on the lookout for Alewerks Pumpkin again!
BACKPACKING
There are abundant opportunities for backpacking at Shenandoah, and the Appalachian Trail runs past the campground. We'll explore some options in other posts, but remember to get your permit in advance. Among the trails described here, look for a nice campsite uphill from the Rose River Loop Trail just before the falls.
HIKES
No matter your ambition, there is a hike for you in this part of Shenandoah. I highly recommend the Rose River Falls Loop and the Bearfence Rock Scramble. There's also a half-mile trail from the campground to a peak for your morning warm-up or to enjoy a sunset. Other options are available on the park website.
The 4+ mile Rose River Falls Loop is well-described on the Park Service website, and I strongly recommend hiking it clockwise as described. The parking is about 8 miles north of the campground, just north of Fishers Gap at Skyline Drive mile 49.4, and you'll cross Skyline Drive to the trailhead. Located on the east side of the ridge, this trail gets some morning sun to help you warm up. The descent to the falls is pleasant, although the falls were underwhelming when I visited after an extended dry spell. The real highlights for me were the walk in the Rose River gorge and the ascent of Dark Hollow along Hogcamp Branch. By walking clockwise, you'll have views of countless cascades that will make you forget that you are working hard to climb. Definitely take the short, but steep, side trail to Dark Hollow Falls - it's worth the effort. The smooth fire road makes the rest of the climb easier, and be sure to visit the historic Cave family cemetery, a quiet reminder that people have lived and died in these mountains for many years.
Bearfence Rock Scramble may be the most memorable hike on all of Skyline Drive, and I am all smiles just thinking about it. Leave your pets and trekking poles at home, because it's not safe for pets and you'll need your hands free. And skip this one in wet weather because the rocks can be dangerously slick. The parking is about a mile north of the campground at Skyline Drive mile 46.4. The short 1.4 mile distance and modest elevation gain belie the effort of the scrambling you'll do to reach the spectacular 360-degree viewpoint. This trail gives a small taste of parts of the Appalachian Trail in New Hampshire and Maine, or the Long Trail in Vermont, but it's much closer to home and only takes an hour. Definitely do this trail if you're up to the challenge. I'm still smiling about it, by the way!
Lewis Mountain Summit Trail leaves the campground across from site 16, crosses the Appalachian Trail and ascends 150 feet to viewpoints on Lewis Mountain. It would be a perfect place to watch a sunset.
INTERESTING FACT
The Lewis Mountain area was originally opened in 1939 as a segregated recreation area to comply with Virginia state law, and the park was not fully integrated until 1950.
WORTH A STOP
The Ole Country Store & Bakery in Culpeper has temptations beyond your sweet tooth's wildest dreams and is definitely worth a stop. I got a made-to-order sandwich to go for lunch at the park, and I was delighted that they had chocolate cookies just like my mother used to make. 
LINKS
Shenandoah National Park https://www.nps.gov/shen/index.htm
Lewis Mountain Campground https://www.nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/lewis-mountain-campground.htm
Shenandoah Hikes https://www.nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/hiking.htm
Rose River Falls Loop https://www.nps.gov/thingstodo/rose-river-falls.htm
Bearfence Rock Scramble https://www.nps.gov/thingstodo/bearfence-rock-scramble.htm